Is the title of a 2006 travel writing piece by Jason Anthony.
Here is one bit
Pushing through heavy wooden doors into the small dark common room of the main building, I stepped into another world. Vostok’s residents were gathered around an old billiards table, smoking their raw Russian cigarettes and talking quietly. They sat in a dense smoke that had years ago seeped into cracks in the balls and left a stain the color of sunburnt grass.
You can read the rest for free here.